Cafés, and especially historic cafés that date back many years, are a point of reference for local communities, carrying a particular symbolism. They are more than just places to have a coffee, drink or dessert: they are spaces of social gathering and, often, venues for cultural events.
Historic cafés are an integral part of every city’s identity. They are fully integrated into city routes, and have a multifaceted contribution to the formation of urban culture, marking a space halfway between the intimacy of the home and the public nature of the workplace. It thus shouldn’t come as a surprise that they are often represented in art, music, literature, theater and film.
The legacy of the historic cafés is reflected not only in the presence of historical objects, photographs and paintings, but also in the diligent effort to preserve the old architectural decoration and antique furniture – elements which, according to the owners, are an integral part of the historic cafés’ identity.
During the 19th century, European-style cafés began to appear in the major cities of the Ottoman Empire and the emerging nation-states of the region, including Greece. Especially at the beginning, these establishments were primarily frequented by members of the middle and upper social classes, who were seeking to adopt a lifestyle influenced by Western standards, while the working classes continued to frequent the more traditional coffee shops. In both cases, the largest part of the clientele were men.
In recent years, eight historic cafés in Greece have been inscribed on the country’s Intangible Cultural Heritage list, as they have in many cases contributed to the shaping of cultural practices in urban spaces, as well as to the formation of urban culture, both in the past and today. Scattered across the picturesque islands, towns and villages of Greece, each one has a story to tell.
The “Café Kipos” in Chania, Crete
The “Café Kipos” (“Garden”) was founded in 1870, as part of the municipal garden of Chania. For over 150 years, the café has remained one of the city’s most distinctive historical and cultural landmarks. It has been frequented by famous figures from the fields of the arts and letters as well as politics, including Eleftherios Venizelos, Prince George II, Nikos Kazantzakis, Maria Callas, Mikis Theodorakis and Manos Katrakis; to this day, various musical and cultural events, book presentations and gastronomy festivals are organized on its premises, with distinguished guests. The staff dressed in traditional costumes and the historical relics that form part of the café’s décor take visitors on a journey back in time.
“Ermis” and “Panhellenion” on Lesbos Island
There are two cafés with great history on the island of Lesbos, in the North Aegean. “Ermis” (the name of the Greek god of commerce, Hermes) was a café initially established in 1800 as a Turkish coffee shop. A man who arrived on the Island following the Asia Minor Catastrophe of 1922, was given ownership of the shop in exchange for two cafés that had belonged to his family back in Asia Minor. The store was particularly remarkable for its décor: marble tables, wooden sofas, gold-framed paintings, velvet curtains and countless hookahs, all made in Asia Minor. The owners have preserved the café’s traditional style to this day, including many of those items.
The “Panhellenion”, on the other hand, was a staple of the bourgeoisie in Mytilene, the island’s capital, and had been the site of several political rallies. A few years ago the café closed its doors, and it is now used for art exhibitions. The café is reminiscent of an old aristocratic café in Smyrna. When the “Panellénion” first opened its doors in 1916, theatrical performances were held in the loft, while the main hall played music from a radio – a luxury people didn’t yet have in their homes. While maintaining its traditional style, the café often hosted presentations by writers, artists and musicians.
Café “Mevlana” on the island of Rhodes
In the heart of the picturesque medieval city of Rhodes (a UNESCO World Heritage Site) you will find “Mevlana”, in a building dating back to the 14th century. Passed down from generation to generation, the café has been run by the same family for 200 years. The décor of the Turkish café / shisha (hookah) bar features objects from the family’s personal collection, and preserves its old-time charm. The building and all its equipment, including the hookahs, were declared a historic monument and work of art by the Ministry of Culture in 1989.
“Lesxi Komotinaion” in Komotini
The café “Lesxi Komotinaion” (Club of Komotini) in the northeastern city of Komotini was founded in 1921 and is considered one of the most important buildings of neoclassical architecture, built at the end of the Turkish occupation. The hall features impressively high ceilings, interior columns, ornate staircases and large windows. It often hosts cultural events, book presentations, musical and theatrical performances and more.
The “Megalo Kafeneio” in Tripoli
The “Megalo Kafeneio” (Grand Café) in the Peloponnese city of Tripoli was established in 1850, and was a favorite spot for the city’s high society. The interior still features priceless objects: mirrors with carved frames, oval tables and luxurious sofas and Viennese furniture made in Michael Tonet’s factory. The presence of these historic objects justifies the inclusion of the word “museum” in the shop’s name, along with real weapons from the Greek War of Independence displayed in a special showcase. Numerous personalities from the worlds of politics, art, sport and journalism have visited the café. As in other historic cafés, book presentations, musical evenings and sometimes theatrical performances are held there.
Café “Oraia Hellas” in Athens
The café “Oraia Hellas” (Beautiful Greece) is located in the scenic district of Monastiraki in the Greek capital. Founded in 1839, the café was one of the most upscale spots in Athens, and it was frequented by the city’s bourgeoisie. It was a meeting point for veterans of the Greek revolution of 1821, politicians, academics and journalists, and was even a starting point for rallies against Greece’s first king. It was even visited by Hans Christian Andersen in 1841. In 1980 it entered its new period of operation as a café-restaurant, giving an air of old-time authenticity in a city spot that has become quite touristy. A “Center for Greek Tradition” is housed at the same location and hosts works by folk artists from many regions of Greece.
The “Megalo Kafeneio 1929” in Amfissa
The “Megalo Kafeneio 1929” (Grand Café 1929), in the central Greek city of Amfissa, bears its date of foundation in its name – however, it was called “Panhellenion” upon its establishment. It flourished in the interwar period and its fame spread thanks to the theatrical performances it staged on its premises – it was the only Greek café with a theater stage. Greek theater “legends” such as Mimis Fotopoulos, Vassilis Avlonitis, Manos Katrakis, but also musical artists (Attik, Mimis Plessas) are just some of the celebrities who performed on the café’s stage. Film buffs may recognize the place from some scenes from the film The Travelling Players, one of the most iconic works of Greek cinema legend Theodoros Angelopoulos.
The Association of Historic Cafés of Europe and the Historic Café Route
The creation of the European Historic Cafés Association in 2014, by the owner of “Café Kipos” Vassilis Stathakis, contributes to the promotion and preservation of the intangible cultural heritage of historic cafés in Greece and Europe. The Association’s objectives include, among others, “the promotion of the uniqueness of each historic café – member of the Association” and “the promotion and preservation of the cultural heritage” of historic cafés as a whole.
Thanks to the Association’s efforts, the Historic Cafés Route joined the certified Cultural Routes of the Council of Europe in 2022. The Route of Historic Cafés offers people the chance to travel back in time, enjoying the luxury of cafés in their golden age and discovering their important role in Europe’s cultural history. Through events, performances and artistic activities, visitors can discover café culture and understand the place these spaces hold in urban landscapes. Above all, these cafés, as sources of living heritage, perpetuate the traditions of European coffee culture and the consumption of cakes and pastries, reflecting local practices and products.
The “Historic Coffee Route” is an innovative thematic itinerary covering the following 15 countries: Austria, Belgium, Czech Republic, Denmark, France, Greece, Hungary, Italy, Malta, Portugal, Romania, Slovakia, Spain, Switzerland and Turkey.
Based on the original article which appeared on Grèce Hebdo
Read also via Greek News Agenda: The medieval city of Rhodes; Lesbos – An island of culture and history
TAGS: HERITAGE
