The Great Lent is a period of grief and restraint, observed by Christians in preparation for the feast of Easter. It is meant to echo the 40 days Jesus spent fasting in the desert and resisted the temptations of Satan, before beginning his public ministry.
In Greek, it is called Megali Tessarakosti, meaning “the great 40-day period”, but almost exclusively referred to with the shortened term Sarakosti; it once did actually last for about 40 days, however it now lasts for 48, starting on Clean Monday and ending on Holy Saturday.
Traditions of Sarakosti
The period of Sarakosti in the Greek Orthodox Church is primarily associated with the practice of religious fasting; unlike the meaning of “fasting” in most contexts, in this case fasting does not entail abstaining from food altogether, not even for short periods of time (unlike, e.g., the Islamic Ramadan, where people must not eat nor drink anything as long as the sun is up). Instead, worshippers are expected to cut off certain foods from their diet for the entirety of this period.
The basic principle is to give up animal products, such as meat, dairy and eggs. In this aspect, Greek Orthodox fasting closely resembles the vegan diet, but with some major differences. Probably the most important one is that fasters must refrain from consuming olive oil (usually, other vegetable oils are considered acceptable) – although entire olives can be eaten.
On the other hand, it is allowed to eat seafood, and in fact seafood is considered among the most traditional things to consume during the Great Lent. Fish is only allowed on Great feasts during this period, such as the Annunciation of the Virgin Mary; on these days oil can also be consumed. Finally, honey is also allowed during Lent. Alcohol was traditionally also avoided during Lent, although this has evidently changed in recent years.
Of course, religious fasting also differs from vegan lifestyle as it does not discourage fasters from using other animal products that are not consumed, such as leather or cosmetics. However, this period is supposed to affect all aspects of people’s lives, as it also calls for the more time dedicated to praying, contemplation, confession and repentance, and the exercise of restraint in general.
It should be noted that, in practice, many people who identify as Orthodox Christians choose not to observe religious fasting during the period of Sarakosti; some may choose to only abstain from certain foods, e.g. meat, and not others. It is also common practice to adhere to the strict practices of fasting exclusively during the Holy Week, a period particularly associated with mourning and religious zest. Hence, many steakhouses and souvlaki restaurants choose to close down and take a holiday for all or part of the Holy Week. On the other hand, many restaurants and fast-food chains offer more vegan options throughout the Great Lent, marketed as “Sarakosti menu”.
Clean Monday or Koulouma
The Great Lent follows the period of feasting and merry-making known as the Carnival. During the final days of the Carnival, Christians are supposed to gradually remove animal products from their diet. On Tsiknopempti, the second to last Thursday before Lent, the Greek Orthodox are allowed to consume meat for the last time, which is celebrated with great banquets featuring grilled meats. The last Sunday before Lent is known as Tyrini (from tyri, “cheese”) and it signals the last day on which dairy products can be consumed.
Sarakosti begins on Clean Monday (Kathara Deftera), which is traditionally observed as a national holiday. Its name denotes the period of cleansing that it ushers in; although it used to be sometimes rendered as “Ash Monday” in English, in resonance with Ash Wednesday (the first day of Lent in some Western Christian denominations, including Anglicanism), the traditions of the two holy days differ substantially, and the direct translation of “Clean” (Kathara) better describes the significance of the day in the Greek Orthodox Church.
The day is observed with a large banquet of Lenten dishes, known as “Koulouma”; although many choose to have home-cooked meals indoors with their families, or eat at seafood restaurants, the most traditional version of a Clean Monday meal is a picnic lunch featuring an assortment of cold dishes and, often, canned food, since the day is closely associated with the outdoors.
Some of the most traditional foods for such picnics include taramosalata, olives, pickles, canned squid and cuttlefish and halvas (see below for more on Lenten foods). The one food that is exclusively associated with Clean Monday is lagana bread, a flatbread traditionally prepared with unleavened dough (without yeast), although leavened lagana is more common today. It closely resembles the Italian focaccia, but is covered with sesame seeds, and is believed to have its roots in Ancient Greek/Roman cuisine.
The most characteristic tradition of Clean Monday, in accordance with the day’s outdoorsy character, is the flying of kites. People, especially families with young children, go to open spaces –usually large yards, vacant lots or grasslands– and fly kites trying to get them as high as possible. In Athens, the most famous site to fly kites and have Koulouma picnics is the Philopappou Hill, close to the city center, where celebrations are usually organized by the Municipality, featuring an open buffet and shows by music bands (mainly the City of Athens Symphony Orchestra).
Similar events are organized in various municipalities around Greece. Apart from that, there are numerous local traditions linked with the day, that differ between regions and towns, often dating back hundreds of years. Among the most famous ones is the alevromoutzouroma (“flour-smearing”) in Galaxidi (Central Greece), where people throw colored flour at each other.
Traditional Foods
Apart from the lagana bread, which is exclusively eaten as part of the Koulouma meal, all foods consumed during the Sarakosti period are also eaten throughout the year. Besides, any vegan dish can be part of the Lenten table, including salads, potatoes, rice and pasta. However, there are certain dishes that are closely associated with this period, and with the Clean Monday meal in particular, and are often referred to as “sarakostiana”.
Taramosalata (taramas salad) is a popular type of spread made from taramas, the salted and cured roe (fish eggs) of the cod, carp, or grey mullet. Its ingredients include oil, lemon juice, and bread crumbs or mashed potatoes. Other variations may include ground almonds, garlic, spring onions, peppers, and vinegar. It may be home-made or store bought; it has the consistency of a thick paste, either pink or off-white, and is used as a spread or dip. At the Koulouma table, it is ideally paired with the lagana bread.
Seafood is of course widely available and much loved in Greece all year-round, and is especially associated with sea-side taverns in summertime. However, its consumption also increases during Sarakost;I, as it is a good substitute for meat, especially as an excellent source of protein. Squid, cuttlefish and shrimps may be boiled, fried or grilled. Canned squid and cuttlefish, in particular, are among the staples of a Koulouma picnic. They can also be used in “Lenten versions” of typical meat dishes, e.g. squid souvlaki.
Pulses are among the most typical dishes in Greek cuisine. Beans, lentils and chickpeas are consumed in soups and salads – the hearty fasolada (white bean soup) is among Greece’s signature dishes. Like seafood, pulses are a great source of protein, and are consumed even more often during the period of Sarakosti, and often used as substitutes for meat, as in chickpea-balls and lentils used in red sauce instead of ground beef.
Halvas is a popular desert in Greece as well as in the rest of the Balkans, but also in Middle East and other parts of Asia. As one of the few traditional confections that don’t contain eggs, milk or butter, it is considered the the Sarakosti desert par excellence. There are two basic versions of halvas (with numerous local variations also existing), and they in fact not at all similar to one another. The halvas usually prepared at homes is made from semolina with sugar and/or honey, and eaten with a spoon of fork. It is often also offered in restaurants as a complimentary desert at the end of a meal. It is seldom sold at stores, and can be found mainly in bakeries – like baked goods, it is meant for immediate consumption, as it dries out very soon.
The sweet most closely associated with Sarakosti and Clean Monday, however, is store-bought halvas made from tahini, a condiment made from ground sesame and popular throughout the middle east. Tahini is used primarily as a spread or dip, paired with both sweet and savory foods, but its most famous use in Greece is in the preparation in a type of halvas found exclusively in stores (as it needs professional tools and training, and can only be prepared in bulk). It thus often referred as “the grocer’s halvas” in Greek, to distinguish it from home-made semolina halvas. It is made basically with tahini and sugar, often with the addition of whole almonds or cocoa powder.
Read also via Greek News Agenda: Apokries: The Greek Carnival; The tradition of the Epitaphios procession
N.M. (Intro image: Kites in Pnyx © Alexandros Mpeltes / AMNA)
